We were riding back from the take-out in a battered pickup truck with our whitewater boats bouncing around with each rut in the road. My instructor for the day was saying half jokingly that what whitewater paddlers fear the most is flat water and I had an "ah hah" moment. I realized that as a sea kayaker I've come to love both flat and bumpy water in equal measures. This is my account of my first true introduction to whitewater paddling. While I had been in whitewater once before, earlier this year on the Menominee River, it was in a sea kayak and not a whitewater boat.
I had found myself in
Ohiopyle, Pennsylvania on a family trip with our friends Tim Samuelson and Barbara Koenen. The primary purpose of our trip was to visit Frank Lloyd Wright's remarkable Fallingwater house, which is perched over a waterfall deep in the woods.
Fallingwater (a.k.a. Rising Mildew)
My impressions of the house are outside the scope of this blog. Suffice it to say that it was well worth the trip. If you are interested in your own visit to Fallingwater information is
here. There is another Wright house with sculpture garden in the area called
Kentuck Knob that is also open for visits.
Ohiopyle is an outdoors sports Mecca located in the
Laurel Highlands region of Pennsylvania southeast of Pittsburgh. The town is surrounded by the
Ohiopyle State Park.
It is a stop on the Great Allegheny Passage, a nearly level and extremely well-maintained hiking and biking trail that runs largely on abandoned railroad right-of-way from near Pittsburgh to Cumberland, Maryland, where it connects with the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal Park trail that runs along the Potomac River to Washington, D.C. With many trails and back roads, the area is a wonderful place to bike and hike.
Trail in Ohiopyle
Ohiopyle is best known, however, for its whitewater paddling. It is located on the Youghiogheny River, which begins in West Virginia and winds its way north through and around numerous ridges in Maryland and Pennsylvania until it flows into the Monongahela River a few miles southeast of Pittsburgh.
Yough as it flows into Ohiopyle
Folks spoke of the upper Yough in hushed tones, saying it was full of Class V rapids and was for experts only. The middle Yough, which flows from Confluence, Pennsylvania to Ohiopyle, is Class I and II water, perfect for floating downriver in a raft with legs dangling over the edge. The lower Yough, which begins in Ohiopyle, offers an intermediate area of Class II to IV rapids. It is challenging but not punishing to experienced whitewater paddlers.
The Yough makes a big loop just downriver from Ohiopyle. Whitewater paddlers are able to put in just south of Ohiopyle Falls, paddle through several sets of rapids and then take out near a railroad bridge about a half-mile from the put-in. It is common to see paddlers lugging their boats and paddles down a well-trod path through the woods and back to town, anxious to give the rapids another shot.
Going Back For More
Another option is to run the entire 7 mile-plus stretch of the lower Yough and then catch a shuttle back to the put-in. Ohiopyle has several rafting and kayaking outfitters able to provide shuttles and other services. Wilderness Voyagers appears to offer the most support for kayakers. It has a nice shop on river's edge just across the highway bridge from downtown Ohiopyle. Falls City Pub, a nice tavern, is just down the street and is often full of guides and weathered outdoors enthusiasts. Note that the outfitters generally do not rent kayaks, but require that they have a guide along on any trip using their boats.
The rest of our group were not paddlers, so on the second day we went down the lower Yough in a raft. Our guide at the stern did most of the work steering the raft, but fooled us into thinking we were contributing by barking commands to have us paddle this way and that. The thump of the raft hitting water hard, the repeat drenchings as we plowed through the waves, and the screams of the Girl Scouts in the rafts ahead made the trip fun and exhilarating.
We passed some whitewater paddlers along the way and I did feel a pang of envy. As all the kayak outfitters in town were booked the next day, I arranged a one day introduction to whitewater kayaking through Riversport School of Paddling, a quality outfitter in nearby Confluence (home of Immersion Research).
Lower Yough
The next day I appeared at the outfitter. They sized me up, took stock of my limited, one-time experience in white water--and that in a sea kayak--and sent me to the Yough River Lake for a skills assessment with my instructor for the day.
There, I got into a whitewater boat for the first time. It was a bizarre experience. We sea kayakers struggle to turn our kayaks by edging and sweep strokes. In the whitewater boat I felt I could turn as easily as a top. A flick of my paddle in the water and I turned 180 degrees. My first impression from the maneuverability of the whitewater kayak and its short length was that I was in some sort of toy kayak. I giggled at the sheer playfulness of the boat.
We practiced some basic maneuvers. I learned that whitewater paddlers lean into their turns--carving--rather than edge away from them as we do. I practiced sweeps where I shifted my edge from one side to the other mid-sweep. This was an important and counter-intuitive foundation for eddy turns and other maneuvers.
We moved on to rolling. I found that the flat-bottomed whitewater boats seemed a bit harder to roll than the typical sea kayak. My instructor encouraged me to keep the paddle forward and to push my weight up forward as well when rolling. One's head should be tucked forward as much as possible during the roll. He said the sweep rolls we sea kayakers practice expose the head to underwater rocks and don't take advantage of the extra buoyancy built into the front half of a whitewater boat. For the record, I hit all my rolls, but many were ugly.
After packing a quick lunch we headed for the Cassleman River. It is not runnable much of the year, but due to high water levels it offered us about 7 miles of near-continuous but relatively modest rapids. My guide thought I would learn more whitewater paddling basics in this stretch of river than I would merely surviving a lower Yough run during high water. Feeling a bit unsure in an unfamiliar type of boat, I decided not to argue with him. Another guide accompanied us as we wound our way on narrow roads through the high country to the put-in. The two of them appeared to be competing over who could say "Dude" more often--e.g., "Dude, you were supposed to be my wingman at the bar last night." The life of a guide can be fun, for a couple of summers at least, but it is tough way to make a living.
Rapids
The Casselman turned out to be perfect. We spent about 4 hours practicing eddy turns, peel outs, ferrying and the like. The first hour or so was quite difficult. I didn't "get" the boat or the conditions. I found myself edging the wrong way, failing to edge enough, and generally fighting the boat and the river with slaps of my paddle to no good end. My instructor sensed my frustration and called a break. We humped the boats up the rocky shore and had a good snack and a chat about nothing.
When I got back on the water it was if the slate had been wiped clean. I started playing rather than working on my technique and that made all the difference. Soon, I was scooting from riverbank to riverbank as we worked our way downstream. We would slip into an eddy and then ferry back and forth, surfing on standing waves along the way. Sensing that I was starting to get it, my instructor let me take the lead and pick my own course through the rapids. Despite a few too close encounters with barely submerged rocks, I think I did a pretty good job reading the water.
I have certain iconic images I associate with my kayaking. One is the view across Montrose beach and the curling waves while playing in the surf under the reddish glow of sunset. Another is the sight of an island in the distance when starting a crossing. As I result of this trip I now add the view from the top of a set of rapids at that moment when one must visually capture the scene and mentally draw a course through the churning water to the pool below. I really like the challenge of setting a course within a matter of seconds and then making the quick adjustments as necessary as the each rapids reveals its surprises.
Lower Yough at edge of Ohiopyle Falls
The maneuverability of a whitewater boat was a real pleasure. It was great to be able to make swift and often large course changes without too much effort. I also found that the flat and wide whitewater boats were quite stable. When I plowed into standing waves the boat was especially steady. I felt like I was sitting on top of a sturdy desk and did not have to brace nearly as often or as hard as I would have done had I been in a sea kayak.
I didn't have to practice rolling the whitewater boat in conditions. I need some more rolling practice in calm water before I will feel as confident rolling a whitewater boat as I do a sea kayak. I certainly wouldn't want to wet exit. While I could just fit my legs in my boat, I was wedged in tight. Getting out of my boat, while doable, would have been a chore in conditions.
I got back to the outfitters in Confluence about 4 p.m. I had 11 miles and 2.5 hours to get back to Ohiopyle in time for dinner so I took off down the trail that followed the Yough, alternately jogging and walking. On the other side of the river freight trains were running, but they could be barely seen through the canopy of trees. The sound of their whistles filled the valley and sometimes echoed. The smooth path allowed me to concentrate on the trees, the small waterfalls and the sound of the river as I pushed ahead. Dinner tasted especially good that night.
Trail
I'm certainly in no danger of abandoning sea kayaking for whitewater paddling. I would miss the steady, meditative cadence that develops when paddling a long boat on big water. The wiggly nature of a whitewater board in flat water can get pretty irritating after awhile. However, after a day in a whitewater boat on a beautiful river, I'm hooked enough that I want to supplement sea kayaking with some more whitewater paddling. I'd like to get back to Ohiopyle, hopefully with a few like-minded kayakers, for a few days of paddling, biking and hiking. The area is a pile of fun.
Tom Bamonte
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