Bill Burton: "I use a cheap pulley system made to lift a bicycle http://www.amazon.com/Racor-Ceiling-Mounted-Bike-PBH-1R/dp/B00006JBL3
by separating the pulleys farther (about 1/3 boat length apart) and putting the travel straps around my boat and hooking them with the hoist. This lets you raise the boat to the wasted space in your garage aboev your cars' hoods. I keep 2 padded sawhorses folded nearby to set up and rest the boat on before raising or lowering.
Jim Tibensky: "For ceiling storage in my old garage, with a normal height ceiling, I used a Z-drag system. Much easier on the old body than single pulleys.
I made a large loop with the line threaded through a piece of rubber hose to give more area for the boat to rest on. The free end of line from that loop went through a pulley attached to a roof rafter. Then the line went through an eye bolt attached to a wall stud high up and another lower down, about knee height. Then the free end went through a carabiner attached to a loop tied in the free line just below the higher eye bolt. This makes the "Z." I then anchored the free end, once the boat was hauled up to the rafters, in a cam lock like some paddlers put behind their cockpits for towing. This was just below the knee-high eye bolt. One rig at the bow, one at the stern. It takes some adjusting to get everything to work right, but cost was minimal and it worked really well. I would drive my Neon into the garage, park under a boat (including my 22 foot long double), and drop the boat onto the roof racks. Very nice to use.
For wall storage I just put large eye bolts in the wall studs, put a piece of climbing line through the eye and tied a figure eight knot in the end. The other, loose, end has a loop tied in it and that is hooked over a large hook placed just above the eye bolt. This only works for light boats.
Now I have a garage with fifteen foot ceilings, so I have just strung some heavy lines from wall to wall and slide the lighter boats in. My double sits on the floor on foam blocks and the whitewater boats that I don't use as much are hung on the walls. The single sea kayak sits on saw horses."
Kristofer Dressler: "
The biggest room in our basement is 18' and our boats are 17'7". I had to put some thought into an efficient hanging system.
you choose to hang your kayak, the one piece of advice I have is to buy
good line and ball-bearing blocks. Even though the loads on the line
are not that great, having a 3/8" braided line is much easier on the
hands than tearing up your palms with some little 1/4" or smaller
twisted line. The blocks (pulleys) that you may find at your hardware
store suck. Check with all of your sailing friends to scavenge some
old 3/8" Harken ball-bearing blocks.
order for my wife to comfortably raise her 51-lb boat to the ceiling we
used a 2:1 purchase on 2" nylon slings on the bow and stern, the two
lines join and go through a another single 2:1 along the ceiling. This
way, the line that she actually pulls on to raise the boat has a
theoretical 12.5 lbs but accounting for friction losses in the blocks I
would guess it's about 18 lbs. It doesn't sound like much, but try
picking up two gallons of milk with a single rope and you will get a
feel for how hard it is."
Some perhaps useful information from CASKA members regarding PFDs and tow lines:
From Geneva Kayak Center's Ryan Rushton:
Whether or not you like a waist or integrated pfd tow line has a lot to do with personal preference (for sea kayaking, whitewater and swiftwater rescue is a whole different ballgame, but that's not what we're discussing here). I prefer a waist tow and would not get a integrated tow. Most upper level instructors and coaches I have seen also use a waist tow. My preference is to save the extra money you're going to spend on a pfd with a quick release belt and get a really nice waist or deck mounted tow.
Here's my humble opinion based on my experience instructing and guiding using both kinds of tow-rigs:
1. On high impact tows - especially surf, the line goes slack and taught, creating a lot of stress on the tower. I find the strain on the tower is reduced greatly with a waist tow simply because it is lower and does not pull on your back.
2. Most good waist tows have a "burrito" style opening with a large mouth which much easier pack the rope into following your rescue if you need to get moving again quickly. Almost all the tows that attach on your pfd have smaller openings and therefore you need to pack it more methodically in order to get the rope back into the bag. See the northwater sea-tec, NDK or Expedition Essential tows - www.seakayakingusa.com , these are in my opinion the best of the waist tows.
3. I had a stohlquist x-tract rescue pfd that I was using in a swiftwater rescue class that I was teaching. During a demonstration I was being lowered into a rescue and a line got tangled. I went to release myself
and though the belt was threaded correctly, the amount of strain on the belt caused it not to release properly. I became entrapped and had to cut the line. I'm sure this was a function of this particular pfd and I have used other resuce pfds in swiftwater rescue with perfect results. But it was enough to make think twice.
4. From all the products I've seen, here are the one's I would consider and what I think are the strong points:
Astral Temp 200 - For it's comfort - www.astralbouyancy.com
Kokatat MsFit Tour - For it's pockets and attachments points
Peak UK - Sea Zip or Sea Vest - for it's comfort and large pocket in which
you can actually carry a parachure flare inside of.
Northwater Guide Vest - wear over your pfd to hold more crap."
From CASKA board member Tom Heineman: "I
have always used a waist tow and yeah it is easy to pack the rope in
and it does always release. On my old PFD (which had the integrated
tow that I never used), I did notice once that it was not “strung”
correctly and the ring that was supposed to release didn’t release…
but this was on dry land when I was just messing around. One thing I
have noticed with the waist tow (I have the NDK one) is that it does
get in the way when you are doing re-entries from the water… "
From CASKA board member Eric Matrejek: "Not to create an enomorous history of obervations, but IMHO a couple of thoughts are worth mentioning.
a solid rubber bungee into the towline helps reduce the impact strain,
although a pull from the middle of the back definitely interferes with
paddling as Ryan points out.
waistbelt tow's lower center of gravity is clear advantage in boat
handling, but it can be negated somewhat depending on whats on the back
deck like gear, spare paddles, pump and dare I say rudder as well as
the stern of the boat itself. Things can happen like popping the pump
of the back deck when the line goes taught, etc...
I generally don't paddle hooked up to the waist pack for the reason
that Tom mentions and I also like the flexibility to use the line in
different ways depending on need. On big trips where most gear is
called upon to do many things, putting together your own tow system is
worth the thought and may be econimical as well.
interesting consideration that old school climbers will remember, is
the effect of a simple waist belt snapping against your
midsection. Before climbing seat harnesses became the standard,
climbers wore simple webbing belts. When the climbing rope snapped
tight you got the equivalent of Heimlich maneuver that didn't release
among other effects. Complicated by the possibility of the quick
release buckle ridding up under your PFD, certainly makes it worth
the combing solutions or deck mounting hardpoints seem like really good
options provided a reliable release can mounted securely and out of the
way. I have seen some plastic quick release hardware in the sailing
shops that have potential."
From Ryan Rushton:
Eric and Tom - Good thoughts, some more....
I took the bungee out of my Northwater waist tow because it got in the way and I found that it didn't really do all that much for me......
If your waist tow is in the way upon a re-entry try rotating it around to your back while re-entering and then move it back to the front when your on your way, a different solo re-entry like a re-enter and roll, a
different assisted re-entry like a "between the boat", or a number of different solutions....
Getting the line momentarily snagged on something on the back deck, rudder or even a upturned stern can be an annoyance, but I'd rather deal with that than some of the other issues, imho of course..........
Haven't really had the heimlich thinng happen even in big seas, I'll look forward to that happening someday ;).......
Coaming tow gets in the way of sprayskirt release on occasion, which can be an annoyance or possible danger for a rescuer that for some reason is unable to roll.....
The new northwater sea-tec waist tow can be worn as a waist belt and now ('07) can be mounted to a towing cleat on the deck for a deck tow system. Seems like a good solution, a tow that can be used two different ways!
The one I'm using these days - Expedition Essentials by sea kayaking usa - to be taken as a grain of salt.. "
From CASKA member Wade Norton: " The other point to be said is the
ability to daisy chain the line. The older version of Northwater's tow
belt had a brass clip inside the pouch so you could easily daisy chain
the line. The newer version does not have this clip and they have
moved the bungy (shock absorber) to the pouch end of the line, making
it much harder to daisy chain the line.
DO NOT make the mistake I made and buy
the Salomandor(sp) type that has the small opening for re-stuffing the
line. In rough conditions it's almost impossible to re-stuff on the
From CASKA member Jim Tibensky: "
Horse tack shops sell something called a "panic snap" which can be got in nickel or brass. It is a quick release fastener that releases under pressure. Even the pressure of a pulling Clydesdale. About $3.00 from State Line Tack or $2.00 from Libertyville Saddle Shop. Very handy and very sturdy."
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