by Haris
… sand bar, that is. To be even more precise, it also took a closed beach-access road in Warren Dunes to ensure that the conditions on Michigan this Sunday and a pair of eager surfing newbies were kept separated.
John G. picked me up early AM for a 2-hour ride from the Western suburbs to the East coast of Lake Michigan. Forecast of 16’ waves was the reason, gale warning was the occasion. 6AM check of the mid-lake buoy yielded 6’ waves with 25 extra miles of fetch remaining. The wind was blowing at 25 knots all night
long and the waves were on the rise. A
USGS calculator suggested that along the rest of the way to the Michigan shores these 6-footers should gain another foot and a half to two feet. So there was a good reason I had trouble falling asleep the night before with all
kinds of interesting scenarios unraveling in the expanses of keen imagination.
We took extra care to strap the kayaks to the roof-rack well and check the bow lines. We could feel an occasional tug from the wind on the way up and we could see trees and reeds bend along the road but nothing scary, not yet at least. The waves would have been plenty high at Indiana Dunes National Seashore; however, given the SW direction of the wind, we decided that it would be safer to drive some extra miles to make sure the wind is not blowing parallel to shore when we’re swimming.
We reached the Warren Dunes and decided to try and launch from there. September floods have done some damage to the beach access road there so we pulled into the campsites behind a humongous dune. For a moment we considered lugging our boats over the top of this monstrous mound. On a reconnaissance mission we ascended it
unloaded first. We were glad we did! Turned out that the lake was another quarter of a mile from the top of the dune.< The wind was howling. The sand particles were being blown all the way from the lake to the forest behind the dune. Lake Michigan was covered with white caps as far as we could see and we could see all the way back to Chicago. The day was not what I expected: full sun and barely a could in the sky,
50 degrees air and water. We took a walk all the way to the shore and back. The
waves were definitely there! The parking lot at Warren Dunes is just a couple of hundred feet away from the shore—perfect access for kayakers. This is a public access
beach; however, I am not sure about the access right during the summer season
for our kind. On Sunday, there was nobody there.
Clearly, there was no humane way for us to launch at the Warren Dunes. We headed further North and just a couple miles up the road there lies a town of Bridgman, MI with a prominent sign pointing toward Weko Beach down the Lake street—a combination suggested that we may be able to find access to water that’a way.
Another sign with small-print at the entrance to the beach said that no personal watercraft can be launched or taken out there. We debated for a minute what ‘personal
watercraft’ means and decided that, when not in season, it does not include
kayaks. On the actual beach there were no warnings about watercraft restrictions in general or kayaks in particular. Weko Beach was very nice with only a couple hundred of feet between the parking lot and the water.
Weko Beach
Back to the sand bar now, the aerial photo clearly shows a sandbar about 100 feet off shore. It looks like the bar extends parallel to shore for quite a distance around
Bridgeman—both North and South. The implications for kayaking are both good and bad. On the good side, the bar provides a nice pool for semi-rough water practice on the day like Sunday was. The waves break on it and the last several hundred feet to the shore only see much reduced wave height and power. On Sunday the water in between the bank and
the bar was dancing with omni-directional waves 2-3’ high. I was not eager to jump into the full force of Sunday’s storm and was very glad to see manageable conditions close to
shore.
The bad part is the same—waves break on that sand bar. Just last week I was discussing relative merits of Pacific coast vs. Great Lakes surfing conditions. The fellow paddler on the other end of the line is in Oregon and he noted that swells along that coastline usually wrap up in dumpers. To this I replied that I did not know of
dumping waves along the gradual shores of Lake Michigan Now I do!
Watching the never-ending breakers
The six to ten footers on Sunday were definitely dumping on the sand bar off Weko. The difference between a gradual spilling 6’ wave on Montrose and a 6’ dumping wave on the East shores was pretty dramatic. The wall of water would rise up from the
depths and then the top would wrap around the bottom trapping air and sand in
its hold, close the seal and explode in a million droplets of sand and white
boiling soup. We saw waves collide on the bar at 45 degree angle to each other and produce some clapotis. We also saw waves breaking on top of another wave that was dumping on the sand bar at the same time—sort of a two-storey braking wave.
So what’s so bad about that, you may ask? What’s not to like about such a magnificent
display of power from a relatively protected patch of water? Well, nothing really if you’re there to be a spectator. It’s practically the first row in the I-Max for a sea kayak surfer and the seat is moving pretty well. We did not drive there to be spectators
though! Breaking through the dumping mixture of water and sand that reminded me of a cement mixer in fast forward did not look very inviting. Sure the wind
was on shore and we were dressed for the conditions and wearing helmets … yet, I only dared to dart out during a lull in between the sets of big waves once. Seeing the chaos around me, I felt lucky to get back in unharmed and will wait for the next time when I am in the company of experienced sea wolfs to try this again.
Exploding dumper show
Other than that, we enjoyed two hours of intense bracing and mediocre surfing on a beautiful day with a spectacular backdrop of boiling surf soup. Unfortunately, by the times the waves picked back up after breaking on the sand bar, they were too close to
shore to catch any decent rides. Launching from the beach was made challenging by 2-foot semi-dumping waves which, despite being broken once already, were plenty powerful. Only a couple of steps from shore I could not touch the bottom with my feet. Paddling out was hard work too as the winds have picked up to 30 knots by the time we
were on the water. I will never forget a fellow Chicago South-Sider who came over to talk to us during one of the breaks—he was so bundled up in layers you could barely see his face down under.
Clapotis and its toy
We wrapped up the day by paddling South with the wind about 45 degrees off the starboard beam. We got out to close to the action at the sandbar and swung the blades for about 30 minutes. We did not try too hard but it definitely felt like we were moving pretty well along the shore. After we decided it was enough, the return
trip took about a minute!
More than an I-Max spectator!
(All pictures by John G.)
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