CASKA: Chicago Area Sea Kayakers Association

Chicago Shoreline Marathon: 2010 Edition

By:  Tom Bamonte

Photos:  Humberto Garcia

Yesterday marked the 2010 edition of the Chicago Shoreline Marathon.  The Marathon attracts competitors from all over.  Each year there seems to be more competitors.  I was a safety boater this year and about 35 competitors passed my spot.

The 23.25 mile course runs from Calumet Park to Leone Beach.  The fastest competitors, paddling surfskis, finish in about three hours.  There are also ocean canoes, tandem kayaks, traditional sea kayaks and performance sea kayaks.  The Marathon requires that competitors finish in six hours.  Those who fall behind that pace are shuttled from one of the four check-in points along the race course to the finish line at Leone Beach.

There also is a mini-marathon that runs from Leone Beach to Montrose and back.  This 8 mile course is a nice opportunity to folks to ease into competitive paddling.  It also ensures first crack at the food table at the end of the course!

This year there was a nice breeze from the south.  The heavy motorized boat traffic between 12th Street and Montrose and the unforgiving breakwalls created somewhat chaotic wave conditions.  Performance boats are typically tippy boats and a number of competitors took a spill in the warm water.  Fortunately, everyone was able to get back in their boats quickly and continue with the race, losing nothing more than a little time and a few caps.

The Chicago sea kayaking community, with our relatively wide and stable craft, provide the safety boaters for the Marathon.  We position ourselves about a mile apart.  Our bright hats provide visual reference points for the competitors.  We pitch in and help with rescues when needed and identify for the race organizers competitors who appear to be veering off course or are having trouble of some sort.  This year Keith Heger was the Safety Director, taking over from Tom Heineman, the Safety Director in previous Marathons.  Tom had spent a chunk of August paddling in the Bay of Fundy.

Safety Boater Beverly Serrell

Safety Boater Jim Des Jardins

Local kayakers also help staff the four check-in sites where competitors get out of the water for a brief spell before forging ahead.  Pierre Kornak was the race sweep, following the competitors and letting the safety kayakers know that their term of duty was over.  He probably paddled longer and farther than anyone on race day.

Marathon Sweep Pierre Kornak

The heavy boat traffic was a challenge but overall the conduct of boaters during the Marathon was good.  It was obvious that most boaters were keeping a careful watch as they plowed out of the harbors along the race course.

However, I do want to report the conduct of a sailboat called "Sorcerer's Judge."  Pierre Kornak and I were accompanying a competitor northbound around Montrose point.  This competitor was in a new boat and was being challenged by the chop.  Indeed, he had flipped and rolled just 10 minutes before. 

As we approached Montrose point Sorcerer's Judge approached from our left, out of Montrose Harbor.  The boat was close and I called to the captain and pointed out the competitor paddling a bit ahead of me on my right.  The last thing this competitor needed was the added distraction of being spooked by a sailboat.

The captain acknowledged he saw the competitor and I gestured that he should steer away from the competitor.  The captain replied that he had no brakes.  I told him he had a rudder and should use it.  The captain then said something to the effect of "let me show you how to use the rudder."  He then used his rudder to set his sailboat on a course set directly at the competitor, veering away at the last second to avoid a collision.

I reported this shocking incident to the Coast Guard Auxiliary boat that was patrolling the race course and that boat went searching for the Sorcerer's Judge.  I also reported it to the Chicago Police Marine Unit and to the Corinthian Yacht Club, which operates out of Montrose Harbor.  Watch out for this boat and take appropriate action if encountered on the water.

Perhaps the best part of my day was accompanying one of the final finishers.  This competitor was paddling an ocean canoe.  He said that the folks at the Montrose Beach check-in appeared ready to yank him out of the race because he was dangerously close to finishing in over six hours.  However, he had hopped back in his boat before they made a final decision because in almost four decades of racing he had finished every race.

Ocean Canoe

We had a nice south wind and with less boat traffic there was less chop.  Yet, the clock was ticking.  This competitor was obviously tired and his digestive system was upset from too many power gels.  Yet, he paddled on, taking advantage of every following wave he could. 

He got a bit off track, aiming for the wrong beach, but I was able to talk him back on course by establishing a landmark at which he should aim.  The clock was ticking.  I knew that getting to Leone on time would be a challenge.  We chatted occasionally.  It was obvious that finishing and, especially, finishing on time, was important to him.

He found one last reserve of energy and we landed with a couple minutes to spare.  He was nearly last.  There was no one on the beach cheering him on.  The feasting and post-race ceremony had begun and his landing was unnoticed by the group. 

Yet, the handshake he gave me was firm and the thank-you was deep and sincere.  In the best spirit of the Marathon he had done the best he could and that, in the end, was more than good enough despite his finish near the end of the pack.

Buffed Participants at the Awards Ceremony

A final note.  Tim and Kristen Flentye, the Marathon co-organizers, had a baby earlier in the week.  Needless to say, this was a busy week in their household.  Congratulations to them and to all who participated in this year's Marathon.

Humberto's Marathon pictures here.

Gear Review: Cobra Waterproof Submersible VHF with Bluetooth

I’m not really a gizmo gearhead. I’m a late adopter, if not a true Luddite, with smartphones and computers. I finally got around to buying a GPS but barely know how to operate it. When it comes to technology, I believe the adage, “the pioneers get the arrows; the settlers get the land."

But I’ve always had a thing for radios. My VHF marine band radio is always on my life jacket, switched on to monitor channels 16, 09 and 69. It’s not just for the safety -- I like to know what’s going on. “Calling all stations! This is the U.S. Coast Guard Central District…"

So I was ready to make an upgrade when I saw that 6W handheld submersible radios were now available. I would then have my old 5W for a spare, or to lend to a companion.

I happened to see on the West Marine website that Cobra makes a 6W unit with Bluetooth. That’s right -- you can put your cell phone in a waterproof bag below deck and receive phone calls right over your radio. If your phone takes voice commands, you can make calls as well.

I had the West Marine store in Lombard get one in from the warehouse so I could check it out – and I bought it immediately. I just had to have it! First, not only is this unit submersible, it FLOATS! And it’s wrapped with an orange stripe that not only makes it visible, but looks cool, like USCG government-issue. And it has some other features as well. For instance, a “say again” button will replay the last 20 seconds in case you didn’t quite copy a transmission. A “burp” feature vibrates trapped water out of the speaker. It also has a noise-cancelling mic.

But the fantastic thing is the Bluetooth. Pairing it to your cell phone is easy, and the radio works as well as the phone alone. When you get a call -- my wife phoned me from Denver while I was out paddling on the lake Sunday -- the radio rings, and you push a button to answer the call.

“Hi! You missed your flight? What a shame … I’m paddling two miles off North Avenue right now…" Voice activation, which you can switch on or off, lets you talk naturally on the phone without using push-to-talk. Even in a driving wind and rain, our call was clear, so the noise canceling works, too. The only hissing sound came from Luan, when she found out I was paddling instead of weeding the back yard.

Downsides? A few. There is no longer a squelch knob -- you pre-select a squelch level from the options menu. I’m not sure I don’t prefer the old analog adjustment. Second, some radios now send GPS coordinates automatically with a distress signal. I figured I would not miss this feature too much, since my next purchase will be a SPOT locator. And third, the Cobra is waterproof only to a JIS-7 standard, which means it can be submerged to a depth of 1 meter for 30 minutes. Some other makes, I believe, are JIS-8. On the other hand, if a floating radio on a kayak is submerged deeper than 1 meter for more than 30 minutes, you’ve probably got bigger problems than a ruined radio anyway.

Not too many years ago, rechargeable batteries stopped taking a charge fairly quickly. With replacement batteries costing almost as much as a new radio, we tended to replace radios frequently. Now, the newer lithium-ion batteries last a long time. So perhaps you are overdue for an upgrade. The Cobra HH475 cost me $179.99 at West Marine, also available online. As a bonus, Cobra -- a firm I have no connection to, other than having had one of their CB radios back in my “Smokey and the Bandit” phase -- is a 50-year old company still headquartered in Chicago, with a 24/7 customer service line with a 773 area code.

There is one other downside to the Bluetoothed VHF radio. If you’re supposed to be doing yardwork, you’re going to wish the radio, like your phone, was equipped with an “ignore call” button.

~Bill Burton      

A Pasty-Sized Good Time: Great Lakes Sea Kayak Symposium 2010

 

By:  Tom Bamonte

This is an appreciation of the Great Lakes Sea Kayak Symposium, which is held each July on the south shore of Lake Superior in the town of Grand Marais, in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.

I attended GLSKS this year for the first time with Luis Caro, a favorite neighbor and paddling companion.  We learned on the long drive up that Luis, a native of Puerto Rico, has a real fondness of empanadas, a pastry filled with good stuff that is a staple throughout Latin America and elsewhere in the tropical world.

When I described the glory that is the pasty, the high point of the cuisine of the Upper Peninsula (an ungenerous person might say this is like being the tallest person at a midgets convention), Luis wasn't biting.  He argued that the empanada had been developed over the centuries by a rich and flavorful Spanish culture that spanned the globe.  According to Luis a pastry developed by impoverished miners in the cold and dank environs of Great Britain and then rudely transplanted to the United States where it was embraced by Finns could not come close to matching empanadas.

Pasties

I bite my tongue, but when Luis stopped to catch his breath I predicted that Luis would consider his first pasty a life-changing event.  I described the sturdy goodness of the rutabaga, the noble root vegetable that is in every true patsy.

Luis confessed that he had never tasted a rutabaga and I pointed out that the absence of the rutabaga from Spanish cuisine no doubt led to the long decline of the Spanish Empire.  Luis countered that the bastardization of the empanada in the form of the pasty had undoubtedly coarsened the culture of Great Britain, leading directly to its colonialist depredations that stunted development in wide swatches of the tropical world where empanadas are king.

I responded that I envisioned him going back to Puerto Rico as the pasty evangelist, spreading the rutabaga gospel and freeing people from the bonds of tradition and their overly spicy and unsubtle empanadas.  Alternatively, I sketched a vision of Luis opening a pasty parlor in Chicago, attracting Yooper expatriates, hipster foodies and recovering empanada addicts in equal measure.

As we engaged in this spirited debate the miles clipped away and before long we cruised into downtown Grand Marais.

Downtown Grand Marais

The town is perched on the west side of a nice harbor.  The symposium is located on the beach.  Off-water events are held at the town recreation center.  I was told by a local that on GLSKS weekend kayakers literally take over the town and the locals are glad to have us because we are much better behaved than the hordes that descend in the winter on their snowmobiles.

Grand Marais Harbor

To the west, between Grand Marais and Munising, an hour's drive and 35 mile paddle away, lies the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, which includes the towering Grand Sable Dunes.  Grand Island, another prime paddling destination, is just outside of Munising.  GLSKS takes full advantage of these sites by hosting a variety of day trips customized to all skill levels.

Luis and I camped in the Woodland Park Campground, which is located on a bluff overlooking Lake Superior within an easy walk of the symposium and town.  The campground has showers, flush toilets and running water, so it is not a wilderness camping experience.  All these amenities, however, are much appreciated after a long day at the symposium.

Luis and I were lucky to find relatively secluded camping spots with especially nice views of the lake.

Campsites

This year's symposium was organized by Down Wind Sports, a U.P. outfitter with stores in Marquette and Houghton.  Down Wind also organizes the Ladies of the Lake symposium.  (The 2010 edition opens on August 12.)  I have nothing but good things to report about the Down Wind folks--friendly and helpful.

GLSKS was packed with kayaking luminaries.  Freya Hoffmeister was the headliner, but there were well known instructors from all over the country in attendance as well.  From everything I heard and observed all of the instructors, from Freya on down to the lowest ranking piker, were extremely generous with their time and expertise.  Chicago was well represented at the symposium by Scott Fairty, the Bloyd-Peshkins, Lyn Stone, Hether Hoffman, Danny Thorley and likely several others I've failed to mention.

On Thursday I took the all-day Grand Island trip led by the Bloyd-Peshkins.  The weather was perfect and the water in Lake Superior was unusually warm--almost scary warm for Lake Superior.  Grand Island features colorful cliffs and inviting beaches and the trip was a great introduction to the area.

Grand Island Rocks

Grand Island Beach

On our way back from Grand Island Luis and I stopped at Muldoon's, a venerable pasty shop between Munising and the ferry launch for Grand Island.  As Luis worked his way through his pasty I could tell from his intense silence that it was a profound experience.  He was unlearning years of eating spicy and piquant food so he could appreciate the mellow and filling goodness of a Yooper pasty.  I'm confident that from now on he will have a pang of regret every time he frequents an empanada shop, yearning for a pasty while he has to settle for an empanada.

The next day I joined the trip along the Pictured Rocks.  This was a spectacular paddle along towering cliffs and waterfalls.  Scott Fairty was one of the trip leaders (after have driven all night from Chicago) and he kindly let a group of us paddle up close to the cliff faces, playing in the sometimes confused water and doing our best not to gouge the bottoms of our boats on the rocks.  I'm so glad to have taken this paddle, one of the best ever stretches of shoreline for paddling in my book.

Pictured Rocks

   Waterfall off the cliff

View from inside cave

Sense of scale

Curve to Point

These day trips were a great way to meet fellow paddlers from all over.  Some of these paddlers were from areas without an established paddling community and they complained of feeling isolated.  It made me feel fortunate to be part of a large paddling community in Chicago, were we can be isolated together.  Some of the people on these 18 mile trips were relatively new to paddling, but they did a great job keeping up and learning on the water.  Other were old hands, having attended GLSKS for years. 

On Saturday I took classes.  These included a surf class because Lake Superior had picked up with 2-4 footers.  I had so much fun in class that I stayed afterwards to play around with several other like-minded folks in the surf and chop where the beach met the breakwater at the entrance to the harbor.

On Saturday night the GLSKS crowd headed for the local high school gym for a pasty dinner hosted by the students.  The pasties were made by the local kids under the guidance, we hoped, of the town's pasty experts. There were filling side dishes and extremely rich desserts as well,   Freya Hoffmeister then gave her round Australia talk.

I had seen that talk in Chicago earlier in the week.  It is a long way around Australia.  I knew that tired kayakers in an overheated and stuffy gym after a heavy meal were in for a struggle.  I confess I snuck out to enjoy a shower, see the sun set over the lake, and wander through town at dusk processing all of the good experiences over the past few days.

When I returned to the high school, I saw a small group of folks at the entrance slouching on a bench with their legs splayed before them, panting and nearly cross-eyed.  Occasionally, others would stumble out with red faces and rapidly blinking eyes.  The combination of a heavy dinner, a hot gym and a long journey was just too much for them.

There was a spirited after-dinner gathering at the local bar.  The next morning there was a race.  Luis and I were taking down our tents because rain was predicted for later in the morning and we didn't want to have to pack up wet tents.  However, we heard that Chicago's own Scott Fairty gave Freya Hoffmeister a run for her money in the race.

My last class was an incident management course led by Keith Wikle, among others.  The instructors would designate a leader from among the students, cook up and execute a scenario (e.g., one person throwing up and two people flipped over and a third paddling off into the distance), and let the leader and the group figure out what to do.  Once the situation was stabilized the group convened to discuss what had gone right and what had gone wrong.  The lessons learned were then, hopefully, applied during the next scenario.  It was an extremely valuable learning experience.

After that there was time for one last paddle in the harbor.  By now it was raining, after several days of warm, sunny weather.  Luis and I packed up our wet paddling gear, which fermented on the long trip home. 

While we didn't stop for a patsy on the way home, I know that Luis is counting the days until next year's GLSKS, when he can return to the land of the true empanada.

End of Summer creeping up on you??

The sun is rising later and setting earlier. If the end of summer is looking a little too close because you still have training, tripping or playing goals to accomplish, read on. Many of the Great Lakes Symposia have come and gone, but here are a few to check out.

                      Give them a look or call them to get involved.

(Note: This is not a comprehensive list, just a handful of opportunities FYI.)

 

August 12-15

Ladies of the Lake Sea Kayak Symposium Marquette, MI Contact: Arni Ronis, (906) 482-2500 arni@downwindsports.com www.downwindsports.com

It's this week end if you're free to travel.

 

August 19-22

Lower Columbia Kayak Roundup Slow Boat Farm, Wahkiakum County, WA Contact: Ginni Callahan, (360) 849-4016 info@columbiariverkayaking.com www.locoroundup.com

What's New for LoCo 2010
First, what is LoCo 2010? The 4th Annual Lower Columbia River Kayak Roundup is an instructional retreat for kayakers of all levels.
Classes last the full day, with some afternoon games, and evening presentations. Most participants and coaches camp at Slow Boat Farm, where the event is held, although there are also a number of small B&Bs nearby.
Catered Meals. Sharon's Pizza and More in Cathlamet will be working with local farmers to offer fresh, locally raised food. Breakfast, Trail Lunch, and Dinner are available. Meals will be served at the Slow Boat Farm. Pick up your trail lunch at the morning meeting.
LoCo Meet-up. Kayakers who are not taking classes are invited to go paddling together unguided. Daily routes will be recommended for various skill levels based on the weather and tides. Sign up on the regular registration form. Modest fee of $20 includes the organization of groups, screening for skill level, camping, and evening program.
Sunday Morning Social Paddles (free with a 3-day program; $20 as a Meet-up option). Enjoy paddling with friends and utilizing your new kayaking skills. Separate groups will have different levels of challenge and length of trip.

 

August 26-29

Greenland Paddling Symposium Wawa, ON, Canada Contact: (800) 203-9092 info@naturallysuperior.com www.naturallysuperior.com

Every August, Naturally Superior Adventures hosts Ontario’s only Greenland-style sea kayak symposium on Lake Superior. Instructors include Bonnie Perry and Doug Van Doren, two of North America’s finest Greenland-style paddlers. Perfect for first-time and experienced Greenland-style paddlers alike, registration includes the use of a handmade paddle.

Where the vast majority of Greenland-style retreats have focused on flatwater skills, Naturally Superior's Greenland-Style Paddling Symposium includes surf kayaking at the mouth of the Michipicoten River. Novice and women-only programs make this event perfect for everyone. And Sunday’s Greenland-style competition combines a sprint race and portage with rolling and traditional hunting techniques in a fun-filled format.

With a maximum registration of 50 participants, there will be lots of personalized teaching and feedback from our instructors. Registration includes a beach campsite and hearty, home-cooked meals at Rock Island Lodge, and a Saturday night house concert.

 

September 10-13

Downeast Sea Kayak Symposium Mount Desert Island, Bar Harbor, ME Contact: Melinda Rice, (207) 669-2338 info@carpediemkayaking.com www.carpediemkayaking.com

Registration is now open for the 5th Annual Downeast Sea Kayaking Symposium !

Dates: Friday, Sept. 10 through Monday, Sept. 13.
Location: Mount Desert Island, Maine

New This Year: We're mixing it up this year, offering new classes (along with the usual favorites) and dividing them into series based on skill level and interest: Fundamental Skills; Beyond the Basics; Masters Series; BCU Series; and Just for Fun. Check out class descriptions and the symposium schedule at www.carpediemkayaking.com/symposium .

The Masters Series is for experienced and trained paddlers looking to push the performance envelope even further -- much further. If you feel you qualify, please call us, as enrollment in these courses will be limited, with prior approval required.

Coaches: We've got many coaches from previous years returning including John Carmody, Scott Fairty, Christopher Lockyer, Jean Totz, Russell Farrow and Steve Maynard, plus new coaches including Nigel Robinson from Wales.

Visit the website or call us at 207-669-2338 for more information or to sign up.

 

October 27-31

Sea Kayak Georgia Skills Symposium Tybee Island, GA Contact: Sea Kayak Georgia, (888) 529-2542 info@seakayakgeorgia.com www.seakayakgeorgia.com

 The British Canoe Union is a widely respected school of training, we invite you to join us for your skills development and assessment in this outstanding system. We are pleased to offer BCU courses as well as skills training courses developed by Sea Kayak Georgia and some of the world's leading kayakers. Courses are available for all skill levels and everyone is invited to attend.

Sea Kayak Georgia looks forward to hosting the 2010 symposium to allow paddlers to come together as a community to give and receive knowledge, to see old friends and welcome new ones. The Symposium is planned around the highest tides of the year. The high tides lend themselves to challenging conditions for the advanced classes and flood the marshes with higher water than usual. The marshes are an excellent sheltered water training ground. Navigation through flooded creeks enables us to offer the Exploration Series and the Naturalist Day Paddle.
Group dinners will be offered. Presentations will be given by different coaches evenings around 7:30 to 8:00.

Call with questions, help you plan, and receive your registration by phone: 888 529 2542.


Check in with Geneva Kayak Center for the September Midwest Sea Kayak Skills Fest

When

Fri Sep 17 – Sun Sep 19

http://genevakayak.com

You can always check the many posted calendars:

Locations for event calendars:

http://www.goneseakayaking.com/calendar.asp

http://www.paddling.net/events/

http://playak.com/calendar.php?eid=1458

http://www.seakayakermag.com/events_calendar.htm

http://www.kayaksession.com/calendar-kayak.php

http://www.paddlermagazine.com/component/option,com_eventlist/Itemid,138/view,eventlist

Michigan City to Chicago by Kayak: A Sort Of Lake Michigan Crossing

Michigan City Harbor Entrance--Next Stop Chicago

By:  Tom Bamonte

Photos:  Tom Heineman, Humberto Garcia, Tom Bamonte

Almost a decade ago four of us--Dave Kaknes, Mike Agostinelli, Tom Heineman and I--had attempted the crossing from Calumet Park on Chicago's far south side to Michigan City, Indiana.  The forecast that day was for modest north winds, but conditions picked up quickly once we passed the Calumet Harbor breakwater.  Soon we were paddling in fairly high swells and the wind made rafting up for breaks difficult.

I was a relatively new paddler.  When we heard on the radio that this unexpected summer wind was going to reach gale force I called the trip and we headed to shore, landing on the west edge of the Indiana Dunes State Park.  Since then, I have often regretted that call because making that crossing was important to all of us and we already had covered over half the distance.  That regret was more than matched by the appreciation that no one in the group--all much more experienced than I--had attempted to talk me out of that decision.  When the weakest link on a crossing says go to shore, generally the best call is to go to shore, especially if it offers sandy beaches like the Indiana shore.

Flash forward to last Sunday, August 1st, and another band of four--Humberto Garcia, Sarah Hartman, Tom Heineman and I--set off to do the crossing once again, this time from Michigan City to Calumet Park.  Our preparations seemed more matter of fact than the preparations for the crossing years before.  In the intervening years Tom and I had done many crossings, Humberto is one of the strongest paddlers in the Chicago and this year Sarah has methodically worked herself up to 40 mile paddles with a covetous eye on an eventual "true" crossing of Lake Michigan.

Group at Launch Site  (Tom H., Sarah H., Tom B., Humberto G.)

Peg Heineman kindly accompanied us to our put-in at Trail Creek Marina in Michigan City and drove the shuttle vehicle home.  We really appreciated her effort, which was well above and beyond the call of duty for a kayaker spouse.    The Marina is across the river from a gigantic casino boat and complex.  There was no charge for the launch from the gravel strip at the north side of the ramp and the facility had picnic tables, restrooms and the like.

There was one awkward moment at the launch site.  Tom, a mathematician who prides himself on numerical accuracy, exclaimed to Peg that "August is our wedding anniversary.  I can't believe we've been married 26 years."  There was a pause before Peg responded, "Tom, we've been married for 36 years."  I don't recall Tom's reply, but it was endearing enough to spare him getting thrown in the river.
Peg and Tom Heineman

We launched at about 8:30 a.m. (Chicago time). The advantage of launching from the Trail Creek Marina, rather than the Washington Park Marina at the edge of the Lake, is that you get to paddle down a river under a few bridges, past an old lighthouse and out through the harbor into the lake. 

Michigan City River Scene

Michigan City Lighthouse and Stack

The transition from river to lake is always interesting and winding your way into a large body of water just adds a bit of drama.  Michigan City has a long harbor mouth and then, suddenly, you are in open water.

The weather started strange.  Clouds filled the sky, not quite fog and not quite storm clouds.  There was a modest chop and a bit of a head wind.  As we followed a steady course--273--the dunes gradually curved away.  We never lost sight of the land entirely, but the shore was enshrouded in a haze.

Humberto Garcia

There is not much to say about a crossing in good conditions.  We took regular breaks and took turns chatting each other up (Q:  "What's been up with you?"  A:  "I'm having a mid-life crisis and enjoying every minute.").  Mostly, we just paddled, taking in the scenery and the texture of the water while letting our thoughts bubble up for examination.   Sometimes these thoughts are profound, sometimes they are technical ("how can I make my paddle exit quieter") and sometimes they are more prosaic ("how good those french fries are going to taste when we get done").
Sarah Hartman--Ready to Strangle Someone?

We stopped every 90 minutes and rafted for a break.  Tom and I especially enjoyed getting in the warm water and stretching our tired limbs (among other bodily functions).  When you are six miles from shore, hanging on to two sterns and enjoying the warm water, the quiet and the enormity of sky and water, the simple joy of kayaking just takes over.  I guess it takes lots of maturity and plenty of paddling skill just to get to a state where you can truly enjoy and the childish pleasure of gamboling around outdoors.

Break Time Mid-Trip

Navigation was a challenge, even though we were steering a straight course that was almost due west  (273 according to the experts).  Compasses and even GPS units are never in perfect agreement.  And on the open water distant boats that seemed anchored in just the right alignment to our course had a disturbing tendency to actually be moving and thus lured us off course as we followed them.  Our group course turned out to be an amalgam of our individual courses and in the end we steered a pretty straight line for a group of strong individualists.

Even six miles from shore there was more noise than I expected.  When we passed large industrial complexes we could hear the clanking of machinery.  There was a distant drone of cigarette boats.  At one point classical music wafted across the water.  It took me awhile to figure out that Tom was playing commercial radio on his fancy marine radio.  What we didn't hear was the screech of shore birds, as we were too far out and/or not far enough gone to attract such birds.

There were moments, however, when these sounds seemed to drop away, leaving only the slip-splash of one's paddle and the hiss of the hull through the water.  These were the special times when we truly sank into our paddle.  Nothing matter but forward movement towards a misty goal on route 273.

Paddling In The Calm

A bit past midway in our trip we hit a calm stretch and then seemed to cross a seam of some sort.  Mild wind and waves arranged themselves behind us.  The Great Lakes Coastal Forecast System for that time shows that there was an unusually sharp line dividing the east and the west winds.  With the east wind assisting us and tiny waves pushing us along the paddling got easier and our spirits rose.  In these conditions a "true" crossing of Lake Michigan seemed very doable.

Unusual Wind Direction "Zipper" on Lake Michigan

As we neared Calumet Park boat traffic picked up and our eyes strained to find the boat ramp.  We debated as we paddled whether this or that landmark would guide us to the ramp.  Finally, we got close enough to see our take out.  After a few celebratory rolls--good to confirm that you can still roll after 9.5 hours and 33 miles of paddling--we landed at about 6 p.m.

Sarah Hartman Approaching Calumet Park

After packing up we met at Calumet Fisheries for food.  Even though our dining spot was sitting on the sidewalk at the edge of the 95th Street Bridge over the Calumet River next to the restaurant/smokehouse and we had paper bags for dinnerware, we had at least as much to celebrate as at any fancy dinner.  We had paddled safely and relatively swiftly (for us) across 33 miles of Lake Michigan.  We enjoyed the view of the Calumet River and the descending sun and talked while the warm weariness after a long paddle crept into our bones and muscles.

Post Paddle Snack On The Calumet River Bridge

* * *

SOME LESSONS I LEARNED

The risks associated with crossings--e.g., adverse weather changes, injuries, illnesses, equipment failure, bad judgments--increase the longer the group is on the water.  The goal of the group should be to maintain as fast a pace as possible without exacerbating those risks (e.g., slower paddler pops a shoulder trying to keep up with group pace that is faster than paddler can handle).  When you are traveling at a pace where the risks of going faster match the risks of going slower you are in the sweet spot.

Some things I learned on this extended crossing:

--  Breaks.  Breaks are essential but eat up lots of time, have inherent risks (e.g., smashed fingers between rafted boats) and often result in drift from intended course.  When folks get tired they start to take breaks at every opportunity, slowing forward progress on the last portion of the trip where risks are the highest already.  For example, someone stops to take a photo and the whole group stops paddling and soon you have a impromptu 5-10 minute break.   Thus, on any significant crossing the group should commit to a schedule of breaks in advance and each member should do their best to stick to that schedule.  On this trip we took breaks every 90 minutes and that seemed to work well.  Even though we had a couple of unscheduled stops, our total speed was over 3.5 mph while our paddling speed was 4.1 mph. 

--  Rafting Up.  It takes a lot of energy to hold boats together by hand, especially when one is also fiddling with food, cameras and the like.  Better to use contract tow ropes to secure the boats, leaving all hands free.

--  Day Hatch.  It is an awkward reach into a day hatch.  In addition, the hatch is prone to swamping, as one member of the group found out.  Better to raft up with the boats facing in opposite directions and have your paddling partner fish for what you need from your day hatch while you fish out the stuff they want from their day hatch.  Remind each other to secure the hatch cover immediately.  We had to pump out a day hatch on this trip and we shuddered at how difficult it might have been in 3 foot waves and 20 mph winds.

--  Food.  My sense is that many folks don't eat or drink enough on long crossings and they eventually run out of gas.  GORP is great, but on a long paddle you need more substantial food.  I packed a dozen potato and cheese pirogi slathered with spicy tomato sauce on this trip and ate them all over two breaks.  I had a carton of a sauerkraut/split peas combo as the chaser.  This was on top of GORP, power bars, and fruit.  It is very tough to eat in rough water and the risks of losing your food overboard or injuries from rafted up boats increase markedly.  Eat plenty whenever you can.

--  Weather/Judgment.  We were scheduled to go the day before but postponed because of marginal weather that included a possibility of thunderstorms.  When planning a significant crossing it is important to be very cautious when making the call to put in and to build in schedule flexibility so the group is not so dead-set on paddling on a particular day that you set off in marginal conditions.

--  Bugs.  There are mosquitoes six miles out in Lake Michigan.  They are very hungry.